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Mavericks+W7 DualBoot EasyBCD
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Hey Guys,

SPEC: AMD FX 8120, 8GB RAM, 1TB HDD, ATI RADEON 6570, ASUS M5A88-M BIOS Motherboard


I have only one hard drive that is MBR formatted. And I repartitioned it so that I have Windows 7 on one, Windows 10 on one, and Niresh's Mavericks on one. I successfully installed Mavericks on the third partition. But everytime I reboot I have to use the USB Installer to access Mac OS X, or else I get "boot:0 done" error. I wasn't able to access Windows, so I used the Windows Installation Media and fixed MBR, and rebuilt my BCD and got access to Windows 7 and Windows 10. But now too, I need to use the USB Installer to access Mavericks and I tried installing Chameleon with the boot0hfs option, but then I get back to same boot0: done error.


So I fixed my BCD again using windows installation media and tried adding MacOSX entry with EasyBCD but when I choose the entry in the Windows boot manager, I simply get a blinking underscore ( _ ). 

Can you please help me install the Chameleon (or any other alternative bootloader) so that I can easily choose between Windows 7, Windows 10 and MacOSX Mavericks while booting.


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use clover 

Step 1: Check that your Mac turns on

First, let's check that the problem is that your Mac won't start up, and not that it won't turn on - it might sound confusing, but there's actually a big difference.

Press the Power button on your Mac. If you don't hear a start-up chime, and you don't hear any fan or drive noise, or if there is no images, video or visuals of any sort on your display, then your Mac isn't turning on at all.

A Mac that doesn't turn on is slightly different to one that doesn't start up. If your computer doesn't turn on then take a look at this My Computer Won't Turn Onsupport document from Apple. Apple suggests that you:

  1. Check the connection to the power.
  2. Try a different power cord or adaptor (if you have one).
  3. Disconnect all accessories (such as printers and USB hubs).
  4. If you recently installed new memory or a new hard drive, make sure they are correctly installed and compatible (if possible re-install the old memory or hard drive).

If none of these steps resolve the problem, then you should attempt to reset the SMC (see Step 7).

Step 2: The Mac turns on but I don't get a video signal (or it is distorted)

If your Mac does turn on, but doesn't boot up because you can't access the display, then you are most likely having trouble with the display hardware (rather than a broader start-up issue).

If you do see a display, but can't load OS X or log into your Mac, then you should move on to the next step. But if you think it's a problem with your monitor, then take a look at this Apple Support document for advice on troubleshooting a non-working display. Apple advises that you:

  • Check the power supply to the laptop, and power to the display (if using a separate display).
  • Confirm that all cables are connected securely.
  • Check that the monitor is compatible with your Mac.
  • Remove all display extenders, switches and any other devices between the Mac and monitor.
  • Unplug the video cable (if using a separate monitor) and plug it back in.
  • If using more than one monitor in a "daisy chain" unplug all monitors and test using just one.
  • If possible try to use a different display, or a different adaptor (use DVI instead of VGA, for example).

Apple then advises users to try resetting the PRAM or starting up in Safe Mode and adjusting the resolution in System Preferences.

Step 3: Run Disk Utility in Recovery Mode

OS X Recovery Mode

If your Mac turns on, and the display works, but it won't boot, there could be many issues at play. But the one we like to rule out right away - or repair, if possible - is any problem afflicting the hard drive. The easiest first step on that front is to run Disk Utility. On a Mac running OS X 10.8 Mountain Lion or later, you can run Disk Utility by booting into OS X Recovery Mode.

Make sure the Mac is off. (If it's not responsive because it's stuck on a grey, blue or white screen, just hold down the Mac's power button for several seconds until it gives up and shuts off.) Hold down the Command and R keys, and power the Mac back up again.

Eventually, you'll end up on a screen headlined OS X Utilities. (Once you see that screen, you can release the keys you were holding down.) Click on Disk Utility. Then click on your Mac's built-in hard drive in the left column of Disk Utility. (Usually, you'll see two listings for your built-in drive: the first includes the drive's size, like 500GB, in its name; and nested underneath it is your drive's friendlier name. You want that second one.) On the lower right of the Disk Utility window, click Verify Disk, and then wait while Disk Utility does its thing.

See: How do I restore my Mac with Time Machine?

Step 4: Try to Safe Boot the Mac

Safe Boot limits what checks and functionality your Mac focuses on during startup, and performs certain diagnostics. It's rare, but sometimes you can get your unhappy Mac to start up successfully with a Safe Boot, and then restart it normally, and everything returns to hunky-doriness.

Shut the Mac down, and start it up while holding down Shift. Safe Boot can take a while if it does indeed work. To get some feedback about what's happening, you might choose to start up while holding down Shift, Command, and V: that enters both Safe Boot and something called Verbose Mode, which spits out some messages about what Safe Boot is actually trying to do as it goes.

Be patient during your Safe Boot. If the Mac does start up, restart it from the Apple menu once the desktop finishes loading completely. If the Mac starts up normally, go on with your day. Otherwise, keep working through this list.

Step 5: Fsck for fsck's sake

This step is actually kind of fun - at least when it's not your Mac that's under the weather. It's fun because it feels so geeky.

Shut the Mac off, and start it up again while holding Command and S. You're launching Single User Mode. You can release the keys when the intimidating black screen with messages in white text appears.

Wait until the command-line prompt appears, when all the text is done scrolling past. Then you'll type fsck -fy and hit Return. And wait. Possibly for several long minutes.

Eventually, after five different checks that take varying amounts of time, you should get to one of two messages: "The volume [your Mac's name] appears to be OK" or "FILE SYSTEM WAS MODIFIED." If you encounter the first message, type reboot and press Return. If you see the latter message, though, you'll want to run fsck -fy all over again. You can retype the command and hit Return, or press the Up arrow once and then press Return.

Ideally, you’d eventually get to the "…appears to be OK" message, type reboot, and find that your Mac now starts up perfectly.

If this doesn't work, and your Mac still doesn't start up, then move on to the next step.

Step 6: Reset the NVRAM, because why not?

In the PowerPC days, we talked about resetting the PRAM. On modern Macs, the real term is resetting the NVRAM. The name refers to special memory sections on your Mac that store data that persists even when the Mac is shut off, like volume settings, screen resolution, and similar options.

Resetting that data isn't harmful, but quite frankly it's also rarely genuinely useful. But man, at this point, it can't hurt.

You might need to grow an extra finger or two for this one, or have a friend help you out. Hold down all of these keys: Command, Option, P and R, and turn on the Mac. Keeping holding the keys down until you hear the Mac restart again. Apple says to let it restart just the one time; I usually listen for a second reboot, and then release the keys.

In some cases, after performing this step, your Mac will restart normally. In other cases, you might instead see a progress bar on startup. If the progress bar fills up and then the Mac starts up, you're probably good to go. In some cases we've seen, however, the Mac shuts down at around the halfway point in the progress bar.

Step 7: Reset the SMC

In some situations, you may need to reset your computer's System Management Controller (SMC). This is largely a last-ditch attempt to fix the current version of Mac OS X before attempting to recover the data and moving on to re-installing OS X. Apple has a detailed article online that guides you through the SMC reset process.

Step 8: Target disk mode

This step should be taken prior to Step 9 and it depends on your backup situation. You do make regular backups, right? If you're not sweating at the moment, confident in your Time Machine or other backup solution then go ahead to Step 9. But if you wish you'd backed up your Mac then now is the time to see what you can salvage from the machine.

For this, you'll need a second Mac. If you haven't got one then ask a friend. Follow these steps to use Target Disk Mode:

  1. Connect both Macs together using an Apple Thunderbolt cable (it also works with FireWire cables on older Macs).
  2. Swift off your Mac (hold down the power button if necessary).
  3. Start up your Mac while holding down the T button on the keyboard.
  4. Keep holding the T button down as you hear the startup chime and keep it pressed until the Thunderbolt icon appears on your screen.

This places your Mac in Target disk mode. In Target Disk mode your Mac acts like an external drive. You should now, hopefully, see the hard drive for your Mac on your second Mac's Finder. You can grab the files you need from your hard drive, or even clone the entire hard drive to another external drive.

How to back up your Mac: Three types of backup all Mac users should be using

Step 9: Reinstall Mac OS X

Remember OS X Recovery from Step 3? You can use it to reinstall Mac OS X too. Boot into Recovery mode, and then click to install Mavericks and follow the on-screen prompts. See Use Recovery mode to restore your Apple Mac computer.


Step 10: Make a Genius Bar appointment

If you've made it this far and your Mac doesn't work then you will need to take it in to an Apple Genius Bar to see if they can help you fix it (or arrange for a repair under warranty). Hopefully you have got enough data from your Mac so as to be able to back up, or continue working on a new Mac.

Hackintosh won't boot? Here's how you can use verbose mode to fix it.



kernel%2Bpanic%2Bwith%2Binverted%2Bicon%Setting up Mac OS X on a PC can be an extremely tricky process-- since Apple never intended for the operating system to run on any third-party hardware, Mac OS X can suffer from all sorts of bugs and hangups when you try to start it on your own PC for the first time. If your Hackintosh can't properly boot for some reason, then you'll probably have to turn on OS X's "verbose mode" to diagnose the problem. Verbose mode transforms the standard gray Apple boot screen into a text-based interface, from which Mac OS X will print out every single process that it runs in the background as it starts up. This way, you can tell exactly which process is messing up the startup process as a whole.

However, using verbose mode itself can be very tricky. After all, Mac OS X has to run hundreds of different processes at once to start up properly, so interpreting your results from verbose mode is often extremely complicated. This guide is here to help.

How To Turn On Verbose Mode
First things first: How do you turn on verbose mode? It's actually very simple. All you need to do is type the "-v" boot flag (without quotation marks) into your Mac OS X boot loader when your computer turns on. For more details, check out our guide on using boot flags, and our list of common boot options for Hackintoshes.
Once that's done, Mac OS X will output hundreds of lines of text as it starts up, which you can read. If your Hackintosh isn't booting up correctly, OS X will probably stop outputting text at the exact moment that the startup process fails.

Common Verbose Mode Errors
Panic relating to AppleIntelCPUPowerManagement
If your verbose mode screen has completely stopped moving and you see a block of text mentioning both a "panic" and "AppleIntelCPUPowerManagement.kext", it means that Mac OS X's CPU power management doesn't work with your computer by default. There are a couple of ways to fix this problem, depending on your own preferences.

The basic way of solving this problem is to boot into your Hackintosh with a Unibeast USB drive (or some similar installer/recovery USB drive), and then run Multibeast and install the appropriate version of "Patched AppleIntelCPU PowerManagement". This should allow OS X's power management service to work with your computer, although you may have to reinstall the kext every time you update your operating system. If that doesn't do the trick, you can use Multibeast to install NullCPUPowerManagement instead. This will permanently disable OS X's power management service altogether; doing so will break sleep mode and make your computer less power efficient, but at very least, Mac OS X will now be able to start normally!

The more complicated way to fix this problem is to either download or generate an appropriate DSDT or SSDT file for your computer. (DSDTs and SSDTs are special configuration files that are commonly used to make Mac OS X work better for specific PC hardware.) This will allow Mac OS X's CPU power management service to natively work with your hardware. However, doing this can be somewhat complicated, as different computer hardware configurations require different DSDTs and SSDTs, so we won't be covering this method today. Check out this tonymacx86 guide on laptop power management if you want to learn more.

Panic relating to AppleTyMCEDriver
This is an easy problem to fix: if your screen displays anything mentioning both a "panic" and "AppleTyMCEDriver", that probably means you accidentally installed a Mac Pro (4,1) or Mac Pro (5,1) system definition without the proper precautions. These two specific system definitions always cause booting problems in Hackintosh.

Boot into Mac OS X with safe mode turned on (by using the -x boot flag), go to /System/Library/Extensions in your hard drive, and simply delete AppleTyMCEDriver.kext. This kext doesn't really do anything for Hackintoshes, so you shouldn't see any negative effects from deleting it.

Panic relating to VoodooHDA
Another straightforward problem: if you see the words "panic" and "VoodooHDA" in the same screen, you probably have a problem with the (surprise!) VoodooHDA audio driver in Mac OS X. This is a pretty common occurrence, since the VoodooHDA driver tends to have a reputation as one of the more "unstable" drivers available for Hackintoshes. Boot into OS X with safe mode turned on (using the -x boot flag) and delete VoodooHDA.kext from /System/Library/Extensions in your hard drive.

Panic relating to ApplePolicyControl
This problem is also pretty straightforward: if you see the words "panic" in "ApplePolicyControl" in the same screen, then you have a problem with your ApplePolicyControl.kext. You'll need to remove it to resolve the issue. No surprise there.

That being said, actually deleting the right kext is a bit tricky; the ApplePolicyControl kext file itself is somewhat hidden within the Mac OS X file system. To find the file, boot into OS X with safe mode turned on (using the -x boot flag), go to /System/Library/Extensions in your hard drive, right-click on "AppleGraphicsControl.kext" and click 'Show Package Contents'. Then, go to Contents -> Plugins. From there, you can finally delete ApplePolicyControl.kext! This kext doesn't really do anything for Hackintoshes, so you shouldn't see any negative effects from deleting it.

Panic relating to Local APIC error
This problem is much harder to diagnose and solve: unlike the panics mentioned above, "Local APIC" panics don't always completely stop the Mac OS X boot process, so you may need to pay extra attention to notice one. Sometimes, these panics will even cause your computer to reboot instantly without leaving behind a readable error message, making them particularly difficult to identify. Anyways, if your screen ever displays a "panic" mentioning a "Local APIC error", it's probably because your computer's processor is somewhat unsupported in Mac OS X (this is a common problem on HP laptops).

You may be able to fix this problem by booting Mac OS X with the "cpus=1" boot flag (without the quotation marks). Unsurprisingly, this boot flag will temporarily limit OS X to using only one core of your computer's processor. You can then permanently fix the problem by downloading Chameleon Wizard and enabling the KernelPatcher module, which will patch OS X's "mach_kernel" file to properly work with your processor every time OS X starts. If you wish, you can also just replace the mach_kernel file (located at the very base of your Hackintosh's main hard drive) altogether with an appropriately patched version downloaded from the internet (search "mach_kernel lapic" on Google).

Panic relating to ACPI
If your verbose mode screen mentions both the words "panic" and 'Unable to find driver for this platform: \"ACPI\"' near each other, then you have an ACPI panic. Unfortunately, this is one of the most tricky panics to fix, just because it's extremely vague: a whole bunch of different things can cause it.

In a few rare cases, this panic just happens when your AppleACPIPlatform.kext is broken. So if you've been fiddling with that kext recently, that's probably the reason. In that case, try starting Mac OS X in safe mode with the boot flag "-x" (without quotation marks). You may also have to use the boot flags "UseKernelCache=No", "npci=0x2000", or "npci=0x3000" (all without quotation marks) in conjunction with "-x". If that doesn't work, try booting into Mac OS X with your Unibeast USB drive (or some similar installer/recovery USB drive) instead. Once you can successfully get into OS X, properly reinstall AppleACPIPlatform.kext with Kext Wizard.

In other cases, this panic can be caused by a problem with either your DSDT or your SSDT. (DSDTs and SSDTs are special configuration files that are commonly used to make Mac OS X work better for specific PC hardware.) To fix this, try rebooting your computer with either your DSDT or your SSDT turned off. From there, once you've successful restarted Mac OS X, you can replace your DSDT/SSDT with another version that works better.

You can temporarily disable your computer's DSDT by starting Mac OS X with the "DSDT=Null" boot flag (without quotation marks). You can temporarily disable your computer processor's native SSDT with the "DropSSDT=Yes" boot flag (also no quotation marks). Try each of these boot flags one at a time; you need to figure out whether it's your DSDT or your SSDT that's actually causing the problem (it's rarely ever both). Of course, some Hackintoshes can't boot on their own when their DSDT or SSDT is turned off-- if that's the case, plug in your Unibeast USB drive (or some similar installer/recovery USB drive) before starting your computer and entering the aforementioned boot flags.

"PCI configuration begin"
If the output from verbose mode specifically stops at a line mentioning "PCI configuration", you may be able to fix the problem by using the boot flags "npci=0x2000" or "npci=0x3000" (without quotation marks). Use the flags one at a time; if one doesn't work, try the other. Fair warning: this solution usually only works on Mac OS X Lion and Mountain Lion.

"Still waiting for root device"
If the output from verbose mode specifically stops at a line saying "Still waiting for root device", you probably have a hard drive or USB drive issue. This may happen if your motherboard's BIOS or UEFI isn't set to AHCI mode; double-check this, just in case your BIOS/UEFI was accidentally reset recently. It might also happen if Mac OS X can't load the proper USB drivers for some reason. In that case, try the boot flag "USBBuxFix=Yes" (without quotation marks). The boot flag "USBLegacyOff=Yes" (no quotation marks) might also be useful.

Something mentioning a Bluetooth Controller Transport
If the output from verbose mode specifically stops at a line mentioning "IOBluetoothHCIController", you may be in for a difficult time. Contrary to what you might expect, the real problem probably has nothing to do Bluetooth at all. Instead, Mac OS X usually loads Bluetooth right before it starts its graphics drivers, so if your verbose mode mentions Bluetooth last, then there's a good chance that Mac OS X is actually having a problem loading its graphics.

Unfortunately, there is no single solution to this problem, as graphics is one of the trickiest parts about setting up Mac OS X on a PC. First, try starting OS X in safe mode with the "-x" boot flag (no quotation marks). If that doesn't work, try starting OS X with GraphicsEnabler either on or off, by using the "GraphicsEnabler=Yes" or "GraphicsEnabler=No" boot flags (without quotation marks). Graphics Enabler is a feature that helps Mac OS X work better with certain graphics cards; however, it may actually cause booting problems on other graphics cards.

Next, you could try using a different type of video cable to connect your computer to your monitor. For instance, VGA and HDMI tend to be glitchier with Mac OS X than DVI, which is usually the most reliable input.

If you're using a discrete (separate) graphics card in your PC, you could also try temporarily removing that graphics card and running Mac OS X with your computer's integrated graphics card instead (though that may cause some new problems in itself). If you're already using an integrated graphics cards, then try adjusting a few boot flags; check out the latter half ofthis very detailed tonymacx86 guide on laptops for more information.

Finally, if you really can't figure out a way to get integrated graphics to work, your last option may be a brute force method: open up your Unibeast USB drive (or some similar installer/recovery USB drive) on a real Mac or another Hackintosh, go to /System/Library/Extensions on the USB drive, and delete every kext file that starts with the words "AppleIntelSNB", "AppleIntelHD", and "AppleIntelFrame". Essentially, this manually removes every graphics driver from your USB drive, so that will be forced to boot with only the very most basic graphic support. You can then use the USB drive to help your Hackintosh boot into Mac OS X temporarily. From there, you'll have to search for a more long-term solution.

NOTE: If you're trying to install Mac OS X on a Virtualbox virtual machine, the "IOBluetoothHCIController" error likely means something different: Mac OS X is probably refusing to load its graphics because Virtualbox doesn't provide Mac support for Intel Haswell processors. In that case, you'll have to trick Virtualbox into thinking that your computer's processor is actually an older model. Check out NOTE 2 of Step 4 in our Mavericks Virtualbox guide for more details.

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